Engine OK, now to catch up

The engine now turns over, with valve timing achieved and steam chest covers in place.  I have not yet run the engine on compressed air.  The band brake is operational.  All the controls on the quadrant work (brake, valve gear control, water control).  I now need to catch up on the disc brakes and basic electrics.  I have also designed a clamp-on attachment for towing and any front-end extras, providing two u-bolts to act as towing points for an A-frame tow hitch.  I am planning to put in place some modern electrics for lighting, the additional lighting is at the design stage; I shall abandon historical accuracy in favour of safety.  With all the work done to it, the steamer's paintwork is starting to look a bit shabby; there will need to be a programme of re-painting before it is fully presentable.

Oops!

When I was trying to adjust the valve timing, the engine did not turn over for a complete revolution - because I had checked it before installing the piston rod gland filling.  The gland fitting was further out when the filling was installed (of course!) and occupied the space needed for full movement of the piston rod and cross-head.  I now have to dismantle the engine assembly to obtain full access to the gland to check and re-adjust it.  I suppose this will be good practice,   :( .  The engine drops out of the car without much trouble.  I shall, hopefully, also learn to check everything thoroughly as I do the work.

Future plans

I have declined the offer by Steam Traction World to supply me with one of the first batch of ten boilers,  as I have had to share my activities with family centred activities, so have fallen behind in my Lykamobile assembly schedule.
I do have kit of parts for a set of electrics for the steamer, which have prompted me to think about the best arrangement for me.  I would like to be able to control the electrics by using a keyed switch, so that all electrics are off when the key is removed.  I also want to be able to turn off the burner shortly before reaching a destination, so that the energy stored in the boiler can be used and reduce the boiler pressure as the end of a trip comes along (this is recommended practice for other steam vehicles).  As I am hoping to be able to tow the Lykamobile using an A-Frame, then the lighting provided by the towing vehicle should be used by the steamer.  The same lighting should be made available when driving the steamer on its own.  Any legal vehicle designed for lower speeds should have a beacon if driving on dual carriageways. - I expect to be able to use one.
All in all, there is a need for an updated electrical circuit diagram, which I am in the process of producing.
The use of standard caravan connectors would seem to be worth adopting.  I envisage adding an extra box for lighting electrics.
I have been able to procure a set of batteries as recommended by STW, they need to be kept charged.
It would be nice to include an alternator in the design somewhere to enable charging without connecting to the mains, and while running the steamer.  If I achieve that ambition, I can post details in this blog.
For security, I would like to be able to use a padlock to disable the reversing control.
I have got to have a steam whistle, and might be able to build one from standard plumbing materials.

Reversing lever and other controls

The mounting for the reversing lever (and handbrake and water bypass control) is welded to the top right part of the superstructure.  The alignment with the engine, on its vertical pillar, was a bit out - I am assuming that welding and the making of box section tubes is not a precise process.  Compensation for this has been achieved by putting extra washers on the engine mounting bolts, which push the engine forward and upward, by 1 and 3 washers' thickness, respectively.  I had to use my block and tackle to take the weight of the engine while doing that.  The reversing lever shaft can now be bent slightly and gently into alignment.  I thought I might need to use washers under the mounting brackets on the engine, but this was not needed because there was sufficient free play on the mounting bolts (once the paint layer had been removed).
The next job will be to finish the engine timing.  Turning the engine over by hand is proving to be an issue, with the gland packing and piston rings in place and causing resistance.  I have had the kind offer of loan of an air compressor to enable the engine to be powered up and tested, assuming that connections can be made or blanked off. I have been fairly liberal with my oil can, so everything seems to be coated in lubricant.  I wonder if I should invest in some "universal" steam cylinder oil rather than using motor oil designed for internal combustion engines.
 

Engine in place

The engine was painted, as planned, in silver for hot parts, and yellow for moving parts.

T

The engine proved to be quite heavy, but was put into place with the help of a block and tackle.

Painting the engine

Now that it all fits together, the engine can't be painted without taking it apart again!
It is now split up into sub-assemblies ready to be painted.
I shall use WaxOyl for hidden parts and mating parts where a layer of paint might otherwise upset the spacing achieved without a thick layer of paint.
Silver barbecue paint will be used for surfaces likely to get hot (e.g. cylinders and nearby structures).
I thought yellow would be good for moving parts - I have been aware that there are heavy fast moving parts which could damage the unwary: yellow is a suitable warning colour?  If I have some left over I can use it for lining on the outside panels to provide extra visibility.
The rest will be dark green as before.
Copper and brass may be left untreated and available for polishing.
Parts to be treated will have to be rubbed down and washed (I am reminded of a children's story in which dirty pigs did not want to be washed, and responded to the idea of soap with "Oofy, Poofy, nope")
While re-assembling, steam sealing will take place - valve chest, cylinder ends, inlet and outlet pipe fittings + piston rings, and piston and pump rod glands.  Any parts which might come loose will need to be thread locked or punched into place.
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Wed 22nd May
Work in progress.
One side of the engine is painted and re-assembled - this time with piston rings, gland stuffing and "Steam Seal".  I was forgetting how much assembly I had achieved, and now have to repeat! I am so pleased that I had bought a hub puller and other useful tools to help with assembly and dis-assembly.
I wish I had used gloves when handling the Steam Seal; it is designed to withstand hot pressurised steam, and easily resists any attempt to remove it from hands using domestic hot water and soap/ detergent - I suppose I should be pleased that it performs.
I have also filed small slots in the  cylinder end covers so that I can insert a screwdriver to lever off these bits for future maintenance activities.

Picture of completed and painted engine is awaited!

The engine is assembled

Now that I have made everything fit together to form an engine I now have to dis-assemble it for painting/ rustproofing/ sealing.  There are no parts left over. As promised in the assembly instructions, it took a while to get the valve rods lined up with the bearing; I ended up having to make the circular piston mounting holes into slots to enable some sideways movement.  One piston was shimmed out from the central column with washers so that the valve rods were the correct distance apart.  The eccentrics are not yet in place as they need a hub puller to dis-assemble them - I am treating that as a one-off exercise.

 

 The hot parts will be silver, as I have some high temperature paint that colour.  I was thinking of  painting moving parts a distinctive colour - yellow perhaps?

Everything that can leak steam will need to be sealed.  Inaccessible surfaces will be coated to resist rust.  Glands will be sealed, piston rings are to be fitted.

I have procured some batteries as recommended.  I note that the batteries need to be kept charged to preserve their condition.

If there is a battery, then electric lights are an option - will try to find (or make) some that look as if they come from the right era, but will use LEDs for efficiency and safety. In the short term, some bicycle accessories may be pressed into service.

I have got to have a steam whistle!  According to 19th century legislation, one is not allowed to use a steam whistle so as to frighten animals (e.g. the horses of the Lord of the Manor)

I note that the battery box is watertight, as it was directly under a hole in the tarpaulin when it rained.  A hole will be needed,

Next steps:  fit the disk brakes; fit the controls; wire up the batteries.  That should keep me out of mischief for a while!