The towbar can now be tested and then used. I was waiting for some anti-vibration spring washers (to avoid the A-frame falling apart in use!) I expect to make use of the towing facility when making longer trips, and for rescuing the Lyka if it should malfunction. For more modest trips, I have some Jerry cans for water or diesel fuel, which can be put in a trailer. I was thinking that towing cars using an A-frame was uncommon when, on my last motorway trip, I noticed a small car being towed by this method by a motorhome. The steering wheels are supposed to use the built in castor effect to line up with the line of travel.
The A-frame is connected to the Lyka via U bolts on the front axle. The u-bolts are attached with u-bolts which clamp the horizontal bar in place.
The towbar will be attached here.
Here, the towbar is shown lowered and ready for use. It can be disconnected from the Lyka by removing the bolts which go through the u-bolts. I already have a towing/lighting board to attach to the rear of the Lyka.
The orange cable is intended to meet regulatory requirements for a backup to the main towing coupling.
I have now worked out the implications of a throw-away comment by our materials lecturer at college, that stainless steel work hardens when it is machined. I inadvertently selected stainless steel as the material for the channels which are the basis for the A-frame. I have not been able to develop the skills needed to drill stainless steel easily. But I have learned the virtue of patience, as it takes a long time. Simple DIY hand tools are no substitute for professional quality pillar drills, etc. with which the right speeds and feeds can be applied.
