Saturday 2 November 2019

Electrics

I have taken some time out to prepare some electrics, as I have outlined earlier.
The first picture shows the box provided as part of the Lyka build, together with a lighting control box.  In the photo, the wires are laid out in much the same way as they will be when installed.  I have done as much as I can in the warmth of my study, the next stage is to install them.  The picture shows (top left) that additional wires go to the Lyka control box.  The new lighting control box will be mounted just in front of the reverser/ handbrake quadrant.  Switches are included for:
  •  indicators 
  •  sidelights/ headlights (including water gauge illumination)
  •  dip/ main beam
  •  headlight flasher
  •  rear fog light
  •  beacon (as required for slow moving vehicles on dual carriageways)
  •  burner on/off
  •  key switch to enable all electrics.
A 7-pin connector is used to attach to a trailer lighting board, which can double up as rear lights for the Lyka;  The lighting board is not shown.
A 13-pin connector is used for all other connections to the lighting control box, but not wired in the conventional manner. 

The cables go:
  • from the main box to the lighting box, via the battery and chassis holes, and including lighting power
  • from the main box to the burner, via the chassis
  • from battery to cigarette lighter socket
  • from the main box to the boiler pressure sensor, via the chassis
  • from the lighting box to the forward facing lights (ending in a connector strip at present)
  • from the lighting box to the pressure sensor (making one original wire redundant)
  • from the lighting box to the brake pressure switch fitted to the rh rear caliper
  • from the lighting box to the beacon.

The inside of the lighting box is wired from plugs to switches, as seen.  There is also a LED compatible indicator flasher.  
 The main control box has been modified by inserting a connector strip in series with the main switch so that the key switch can be attached.

I was glad to mainly use crimped or screwed connections, as I do not yet have the skill to solder quickly with modern lead-free solder - I learnt with lead solder half a century ago, and before the awareness of "Hazardous Substances" had raised its head.
As I shall use only LED bulbs, I have used lighter weight wiring, for the reduced current load.

I can no longer put off working outside again!