Next Kit arrived

I hadn't started on the next Kit, but the GA shows what I am aiming for, preferably painted.

It seems as if there will be a battery involved in running the boiler, as there is a "battery box" and holes in the chassis for wiring.  Perhaps we can use some of that available power for lighting. 

The kit is now unpacked and laid out roughly where it will be assembled.  Well made, but in need of de-burring and softening of sharp edges.  One sharp edge had cut through a bag of nuts and bolts which had made a bid for freedom, lurking in the packaging.   They were tracked down and re-captured.

Looking in the other direction one can see the ghost of the wheels and chassis under covers.  (If RR can have a Silver Ghost, I should be able to have a Green Ghost). The chassis had to go out in the cold while work progresses on the superstructure.  Next tasks are to: remove sharp edges, do a trial assembly, put some holes in the plywood sides to match the frame, paint all the bits and final assembly.  Oh yes, and it will have to fit the chassis!
It might also be a good idea to thread some chord through the chassis members so that it can be used to pull wiring through at a later stage.

Update

Everything so far is (or has been) in place.  The replacement front stub axle assemblies are fitted.  The leaf springs are at last all painted and assembled. 
The new front axles were much more easily assembled than the earlier version, thanks to Steam Traction World for that improvement.
Both the front wheel inner bearings still have a small washer fitted alongside so that the wheels are further out and disks align neatly with the brake callipers; I spent several minutes re-checking the distances, and I think I have got the offset correct, using one 1.5 mm washer on each side. 
The disks still bind on the brake pads; I  am hoping that when hydraulic fluid is put in and maybe a short running-in period has elapsed then there will be sufficient play to allow the brake pads to withdraw and allow the wheels to rotate freely.  The front wheel toe-in will now have to be adjusted again.
I am trying to make sure that everything is painted before assembling any new kits.  I am having to remove some fitted parts in order to get access to some bare metal - the front wheels and leaf springs are currently removed for this purpose.  I am going round the current assembly to check for correct fitting and to ensure that bare metal is protected with paint, or WaxOyl chassis protection, or grease or other oily lubrication.  I am trying to imagine where moisture and dirt might get in when the car is in use.  I am considering using a small blob of silicone sealant (removable) to prevent dirt and moisture getting in to sensitive spots (The lower spring mountings are the only places I have found so far).
I have changed my painting materials to include a better primer, as I was having difficulty in applying paint reliably to shiny machined steel surfaces.
Current work in progress is to paint any remaining unprotected metal surfaces, to make good any damaged or sub-standard existing paintwork, and to check for adequate fitting and lubrication of parts. 
My inexperience with using paintbrushes means that I have some brush marks and paint sags to put right.  I have abrasive papers and a good paintbrush to help.  For improved cosmetic effects on the more visible areas, I am wondering about, in the future, using a fine abrasive followed by a coat of lacquer, as used on some modern cars with metallic finishes.  I shan't be applying any lines until much later.
Pictures will follow when I can photograph the Lykamobile with all parts fitted and no primer showing.  In the mean time we have had an inspection from the Assistant Chief Engineer.

All four wheels

All four wheels are now attached, with hub covers in place.  The drive wheels had keys and keyways which had to be made to fit.  Some needed little more than de-burring, others needed a substantial amount of fettling.  I am not sure that I have the right touch for a fitter, I seem to take forever trying to get a good fit without removing too much material. 
The rear disk brakes fit with no problem - Wa-Hay!  They dragged a little, but the pads can be persuaded to sit at their outer limit to relieve the binding.   I have added some more grease to the rear wheel bearings, while they were still readily accessible.  Any surfaces which cannot be reached by paintbrush have been treated with a rust proofing layer of WaxOyl.  To make life easier for myself, I filed the space between the castellations on the castellated nuts, so that I could insert the split pin without too much difficulty.
Now, back to the leaf springs.  they will be prepared and painted, including the front springs which I attached for the look, and will now dismantle.  Before doing a lot more, I shall re-check the assembly and bolt tightness so far, apply grease and WaxOyl missed the first time around.  Next, any poor paintwork will be improved, a bit at a time on this occasion.
I think that there are some parts which could collect moisture and dirt.  The only one I have noted so far is the hole in the securing plate for the front spring assembly.  If that fills with dirt or water, corrosion seems bound to follow.  I thought that a little silicone sealant might prevent dirt and moisture getting in, and not be difficult to remove if necessary.
I am wondering if a sympathetic local garage man should be asked for an independent check for roadworthiness at some future time - it is a principle that a workman is the least able to check his own work in an unbiased manner.
My handcart has arrived, together with fittings for being pulled (intended for a pedal bike).  I intend to use it for extra water and fuel, and for miscellaneous bits and pieces, e.g. shopping bags.
I note from the main drive sprocket dimensions that a 60 pitch chain will be used.  This (according to international standards) has a tensile strength of about 7000lbf, well capable of transmitting the 800lbf load generated by a 2.25 inch diameter piston at 200 psi. Let's hope that the rate of wear will be low.

More springs

I have now filed down the matching parts so that all tops meet their bottoms.  I could not resist the urge to assemble and install the next set of springs without completing the painting on them.  I felt as if the builder has been left to bridge the gap between blacksmith and machinist.  I have the impression that the leaf springs were made in a hot forge and persuaded to take their shape by a large man with a hammer and anvil.  I think that the assembly tolerances are less than those needed for fitting horseshoes.

First spring

One spring completed, and installed back left, two more in progress.  The lower main component, with bearing inserts, proved to be a bit larger than the space available in the upper component, so some fettling was needed.  The end of the spring, where it bends round the bearing insert, was decidedly concave - until I attacked it with file and mini-grindstone.  Even then, the insert was held at a slight angle - the hole in the mounting disc on the upper component was enlarged slightly (0.5 mm) and is now oval; the pin now goes all the way through.  The other end was much easier.  The lengths of each were slightly different, but were persuaded to match up by using a G-clamp; they are springy of course.  I compressed the set of leaf springs with a G-clamp, rather than rotating the set of 4 leaves as shown in the STW video, I was not keen to spoil the paintwork.  It seems to me that the springs will be quite firm.
I have been thinking about "bolt-ons" while the paint was drying on the leaf springs, and have updated my "Bells and Whistles" page.  I have decided to buy a small trailer, before the effects of Brexit make it more expensive.

This could get boring.

I have made 6 half sets of springs, with five items in each.  One set is fully painted, the next awaits its final coat, the next two have been de-rusted and washed, one has been scrubbed, and the last is waiting for me to pay it some attention.  "Are we nearly there, yet?".
While waiting for paint to dry, I was thinking that it could be useful to combine chocks and a wheel clamp, so that any weakness in the handbrake is allowed for while discouraging other people from making off with the treasured Lyka.
No pictures this time; leaf springs may be necessary, but they don't really get exciting.

Words = Work

The Lykamobile as it is at the moment. We have front wheels fitted.  The rear axle is now on axle stands on a trolley (not seen here), so the whole thing can now move.  What is not obvious from the picture is that the brake callipers don't fit yet.  The words "fit the callipers" means a lot of work for the builders or the makers, or both.  Full marks to STW for their prompt response to the problem.
A careful look at the picture will show the latest delivery unpacked: the leaf springs on the floor.  It is suggested in the words that the "parts should be painted before assembly" (another short phrase which means much effort):  that means that the thirty leaf spring components must all be de-rusted, chamfered, de-greased and painted.  It seems to be taking a long time - thirty times 'a few minutes' seems to be expanding to be quite a while. I am pleased to have selected a more expensive paint which will go direct onto the residual rust, without the need for primer or undercoat.  I have also ransacked the wardrobes for old wire hangers which have been bent so as to support the leaves while the paint dries.

;

The lower picture shows the axle stands on a trolley.  Some of the leaf springs can be seen on the bench.  An un-prepared leaf can be seen at the top of the picture suspended from its hanger.

Front wheels and brakes.

I have postponed my painting plans so as to assemble the front wheels and disc brakes;  I was forewarned that I might find fitting the disc calliper difficult.  I have completed a dry/trial assembly of one side, I shall have to disassemble, re-fit and grease up the assembly.

• The outer races of the wheel bearings were a tight fit in the wheel hub, some abrasive action enabled easier assembly.
• The replacement castle nuts fit (unlike the originals).
• The assembly went smoothly, following the drawings.
• When assembling the disc calliper, I noted that the disc is slightly too far in-board to engage with the unworn disc pads when the calliper is fitted over the bosses for the screw threads in the mounting.  When the pads are more worn, the problem would be less severe.
• A shim/ washer placed between the grease seal and the bearing can be used to move the wheel hub out a bit.  I used an M15 Form C washer which is 3mm thick, the calliper then fitted over the brake disc! :)   This was over-compensating for the offset, and might affect the efficiency of the grease seal and disc pads, and the correct operation of the castle nut.
• When I re-assemble the wheel and disc, I shall try to reduce the thickness of the washer (to 2mm, I think).  I shall also follow the suggestion made by STW to file off some or all of the bosses, to enable a bit more play in the calliper mounting.  STW may come up with a more elegant solution.
• I might also have to use a Swiss file to take off some material from the castle nut to enable the pin to go through, as there will be less thread than originally intended.

The tyres were supplied inflated to 27 psi, I wonder what the best pressure will be?  They can take up to 40psi.

Brakes are done

I

We got the brakes before the wheels.
The machined parts were de-burred, not for mechanical necessity, but because I don't like being cut and scratched by sharp metal.
The disc calipers went on smoothly.  The blank plugs on the calipers were done up tightly, as were the pad retaining pins, so these were loosened and put back in ( I used a spanner on the hex key to save wear and tear on arthritic joints.).  Note from the pictures that I have not worked out what is UP and which way is DOWN.  I have now put the hydraulic input in the down position, so that the bleed position will be upmost.  It is also obvious from my pictures that I shall need to improve the paintwork.

  

The band brake/ hand brake required more assembly.  Differential + metal band + lining = handbrake.

I pre-assembled the hand brake and noted that:
- the metal band needed to be bent slightly to allow for the bolts on the activation lever to move without scraping the differential braking surface.
- the three mounting screws for the band needed to be tightened so that the band allowed a gap for the drive chain all around.
- I decided to use 8 M5 brass c/s screws, in pairs, to back up the glue.  Like others, I prefer a belt and braces approach.
- I drilled tapping holes in the metal band, while in position, so that I would be confident of a good fit later.  The tapped threads made assembly easier, clamping the lining to the band when the glue had been applied.  This also enabled the use of the nuts to lock the assembled brass screws.
- rather than clamp the lining in place while the glue matured, I assembled the parts in their final position and tightened the brake to provide clamping force.
- I have discovered some useful rope knots: I needed a bowline for the brake activator ( I would rather have used a shackle than garden wire, but needs must). I also used a Trucker's Hitch to tighten the brake.  


The final assembly showing expressed glue and brass screws with nuts.

The final picture shows the Trucker's Hitch and the front wheels, just delivered.  

The tyres from Avon are for front wheels of a classic motor bike, rated for 112 mph and a load of over 200kg at 40 psi.  I'm not sure I shall be attempting that sort of speed or load in my vehicle!

Next steps are to get a better coverage and finish on existing paintwork, check the assembly so far, and get on with the front wheels.  For the wheels I shall adjust the steering for zero toe-in/out.

Differential complete - the pig is tamed

The assembly instructions said that this kit was "a bit of a pig", the pig is now tamed! and I have a fully functional differential.  Pictures do not show much difference, but the work to get it operational has been substantial.

I have used car engine oil for lubrication during trial assembly, to enable assembly and removal of close fitting parts.  I have re-learned how misaligned, close fitting parts can jam if they are forced!  Penetrating oil has had to be used occasionally.

When first received, the two halves of the differential were close fitting and difficult to separate; I have filed some small indentations into one half so that a screwdriver can be inserted to help with separation when that becomes necessary .  There will be plenty of flat surface if I decide to use some sealant to keep grease in, and away from the working surface of the drum brake (the outer circumference of the diff).

I had an “OOPS” moment when I had assembled everything and found eight spacers/washers left over.  The pinions in the differential could move sideways but for the grub screws.  These were re-assembled taking more care to follow the drawings provided and insert the spacers.  Some dexterity was needed to align the through bolt with the spacers.  I found that the bolts are easier to assemble to the spacers if they are passed through the arbor from the pinion end.

While preparing the spur gears for assembly, I noted that only one pair of keys has been supplied, and assume that the spare slot on the shaft is not needed.  I suspect that the same will be true of the wheels themselves.

At the outer end of the half shaft is a length of shaft machined to fit the inside of the wheel.  The inner part of the roller bearing needs to be passed along this part of the shaft, but seems to be an interference fit on it, which presents a challenge to someone without the strength/ equipment/ skill to force it into place.  I am considering the use of some abrasive to ease this fitting.

On a lighter note, the Lykamobile has obtained a nickname of ‘The Wench’, as she is claiming time alone with me in the garage.  As described previously she is suspended from a “Wench Winch”, and my set of spanners has been converted into a set of “Wench Wrenches”.  The least said about ropes and shafts the better, in this context; Shakespeare was much better at that sort of language.  (She is now tied up and shafted).

For my future reference, this is what I have done
Put RH hand shaft in position, this one has tighter fitting parts which are readily assembled on the bench, but can jam on assembly in situ.  With lubrication and care, the inner end parts are pushed into place, in order:
1. Roller bearing inner part
2. Arbor which can be used to prevent the bearing from becoming mis-aligned
3. Differential bearing, over the arbor.
4. Spur gear key
5. Spur gear
6. Spring washer
7. Half nut (hand tighten only!)
In the absence of a wheel on the outer end, a length of 28mm plumbing pipe (about 13.5 cm long), a wide 30mm (Form C) washer and an M16 nut can be used to prevent the shaft going too far in.  On first assembly, tightening the outer nut had  the effect of forcing the inner roller bearing into place against a slight interference fit (I have no idea if it is now removable!)   Thanks to sheddingitall.blogspot.co.uk  for his illustration of a similar arrangement which I have imitated.
The second (left hand) shaft is “a pig” to assemble (quote from assembly instructions)
A diagram for my future reference:

With the spring washer uncompressed there is too little clearance to put the half nut in place. The spring washer is 3.5 mm deep, but 7 mm when not compressed. There is less than 5mm available!

I got an anti-vibration, serrated washer to use if I couldn’t fit the spring washer supplied.  It was not needed.

Then it got greasy!
Re-assembled everything with a liberal coating of grease.  The differential jammed solid when the two halves of the casing were bolted firmly together.  After much thought and experiment, I tracked down the problem to the mounting within the casing being slightly smaller diameter than the plain bearing between the differential casing and the half shaft.  The plain bearing was not only held to the casing but was also clamped to the half shaft.  A Vernier gauge confirmed my theory.  So something like 0.2 mm had to be removed from the bearing mounts on the casing.  Everything now rotates smoothly.

I am considering the addition of spring washers under the nuts which hold the two halves of the differential casing together.  On one side, the chain sprocket is bolted on and should hold it together, but on the RHS, I don't fancy the idea of the bolts vibrating loose.
The screw threads for the through holes into the casing are not long enough, so the bolts will have to be shortened.

The next kit has arrived - the brakes.  As we don't yet have wheels, we will be able to stop before we can go!  There is also painting to catch up on; quite a few knocks and bumps, etc.

Catching up

I am grateful to those who have noticed my absence and have contacted to see if all is well.  I have been delayed from completing the current work on the Lykamobile by family commitments.  To summarise where I have got to now...
I realised that the chassis was going to get a bit heavy, so I have rigged up a suspension system based on a block and tackle (rated at 300kg, so it will take all but the completed car at 400kg).  A sling arrangement allows for 3 degrees of freedom, so I should be able to put the machine at any angle and height.

 With limited width, this might help with some assembly tasks.  Some other builders have more space, experience and materials than I do, so I am keeping tracks on what others are doing or advising.   For example, I am interested in how well sheddingitall.blogspot.co.uk is doing.

I am still fitting and assembling, in preparation for final assembly.  For those who are interested in the less than conventional differential design, here are some pictures of the piece.

  This shows half the differential and the drive chain wheel.  The next picture shows a half shaft with a spur wheel engaging with one pinion mounted in the differential housing.  The second pinion engages with the first, but not with the spur wheel which is offset.

  The same arrangement is used for the other half shaft, allowing the half shafts to counter-rotate via the two pinions..

[to be continued!]

Assembled and painted

The updated parts (rear axle and front o/s stay) have been added.  Existing paintwork has been rubbed down ready for a new coat, and repairing paint damage caused during moving the car about.  After cleaning up, a new coat of paint has been applied.  We shall be ready for the differential etc. which I understand has been delayed a bit by casting errors to be rectified.  Dean of STW says:  "Sorry about the delay. We have had a problem with the diff castings as the casting company failed to put the core central so we have them on the machine currently sorting them out. All being well it [Kit 3] should be coming your way just after Easter. The good news is the leaf springs are in which is another kit and they shouldn’t be far behind." 
When the back axle and diff are added, it will be starting to get fairly heavy.
I have had some useful advice about making sure that lubrication is applied as assembly goes ahead:
- grease for all bearings, and gearbox oil for other parts which have to slide into place.

Kit 2, Steering gear; fully assembled

 

The steering gear is fully assembled and the car is right way up again.  The next job is to paint all the non-moving metal parts.  I had to open out a thread on the steering king pin which I had damaged during my inexpert assembly efforts; the correct screw tap was applied to good effect.  I also shortened each of the long tracking rods by 2-3 threads (carefully this time!) A hacksaw, lubricating oil and a swiss file seemed to make the job easier; I didn't have to use the die which I had in reserve just in case of problems.  How often does one prepare for a mistake and it never happens!  The steering is now showing just a touch of toe-out when the adjustment is at its full limit.  As well as painting, the moving parts will be lightly oiled and inaccessible metal surfaces treated with Waxoyl to reduce the risk of corrosion.  Before the wheels go on, I expect to re-check that all the nuts and bolts are secure.  As I assembled the tiller I wondered what the handle was made of on the original Locomobiles; was it wood, or rubber as per the current incarnation?  I also noticed that the welding might need some tidying up, but I am reluctant to do much to the welds - a well designed and made weld (or other assembly) has an aesthetic appeal all of its own.

Kit 2 - Steering installed

The steering is now installed, after a few mistakes.  Here is the chassis, painted, with the steering installed.

The chassis has been painted.  It is shown here upside down, for ease of assembling the steering.  It was also easier to see the small patches I had missed when painting by floodlight; the painting will have to be touched up when the relevant parts of the steering are being painted.

This is the stub axle as mounted.  The lower jaw (upmost in the picture) was filed until the assembly fitted into place.  The stub axle, the steering bearing and steering arm are supplied as a welded assembly.  The weight of the car is transferred to the wheels through the thrust ball-bearing which can be seen as a short silver cylinder.  The king pin keeps everything together, with a domed nut at one end and a penny washer at the other end.  The king pin is fixed to the axle assembly with a grub screw and a tight fit.  There are steel bushes in the jaws which provide a bearing surface for the king pin.
My insufficient experience showed itself in several ways!  The steel bushes were an interference fit in the jaws - I only destroyed one of the four whle trying to force it into place.  "It should go together with a soft faced hammer, using the king pin as a guide to ensure correct alignment"  Even with deburring, the bushes were a tight fit.  I ended up putting the bushes in the freezer for 24 hours; this provided just enough slack to force it into place correctly aligned. (I calculated that I would gain 0.2 thou by doing this).  Then I had a problem with the king pin getting stuck in the hole through the welded assembly.  I was too impatient and had neglected to check the fit of the king pin before trying to force it home.  It had to be released using 'penetrant' (penetrating oil) from three-in-one.  I remembered how useful it was from the olden days when I once had to remove a half shaft from my old Hillman Minx - it only moved afer soaking overnight.  I then checked the fit and filed down the burrs from within the mounting.  More haste, less speed.

I suspect that I might have to shorten the linkage if the wheels need any further toe-out.  When fully adjusted, one rod has 23 turns, the other 16 turns when the turnbuckle is fully adjusted - perhaps 16 turns each would be better.
All I have to do now is to turn the car right way up and attach the tiller.  Then I can do some more painting.

Here is the Assistant Chief Engineer casting a critical eye over the work.

Ready for painting

Doing preparation work for decorating is one of the least glamorous jobs I can think of – it is needed, a bit tedious and only results in a modest improvement in appearance.  Anyway, that is well in hand with: 

·         all the parts rubbed down with ‘wet and dry’ abrasive paper;

·         sharp edges chamfered with a file;

·         concealed areas treated with anti –corrosive “WaxOyl”;

·         and the whole chassis re-assembled.

When I inspected the rear axle assembly, I noticed that the two halves which will house the half-shafts were noticeably at an angle with each other (about 6mm over a length of about 700mm).  When I asked STW if this was within the design tolerances, Steve thought that it could be a problem; they promptly provided a replacement which showed no obvious mis-alignment.  I hope the original can be re-worked as I do not like to think of effort and materials being wasted.
The chassis is now re-assembled (with the new rear axle), needing only hand force and a small mallet to persuade the lengthways tubes and stays to go into their mountings.  I have not assembled the vertical steering tube, since I think it might need to be re-adjusted when fitting kit 2, which will be the steering mechanism.The next tasks are to wash and paint all the chassis except for those parts which will have later assembly or mating parts to be attached or fixed or adjusted.  Unpainted parts include: screw threads, front stub axle mounting surfaces, leaf spring mounting points, steering tube and its mounting clamps, rear axle half shaft and differential bearing mounting areas, other mountings for later attachments.  I shall be wary of painting anything which has been machined and appears to be a mating surface for a later assembly.  Bare metal may need to have oil or grease applied to protect it until later.  With care, there should be little need of later fiddling around to complete the painting.
I expect to find an electric “blow torch” handy to speed up drying after washing the grease off, which should also raise the temperature of the metalwork up to the paint supplier’s recommended temperature for painting after the metal has been sitting in a cold garage. (Brrr!)

Started

Kit 1 is the main chassis.

22/01/17 – the trial assembly has been completed.  A space had to be cleared in the garage first.

It all goes together, using some spare M10 nuts, I shall leave the Nylock nuts until later.  Some de-burring was needed, (one drilled hole and the steering mounting clamps) as expected – I hate handling machined metal until it has had the sharp edges and swarf removed.  The stays had to be bent slightly to fit, as advised in the assembly instructions.
The next stages are to:
·         dismantle it;
·         chamfer all the sharp edges;
·         smooth and rub down the surfaces to be painted;
·         wash the parts of machining lubricants, to enable good painting;
·         treat unseen surfaces with rust proofing;
·         paint all visible and non-machined surfaces using Hammerite smooth dark green paint.

Kit 1 for my Series2 Lykamobile arrived before Christmas.  I am now settling into a post Christmas routine to include its construction.  First task is to throw out rubbish from the garage and re-organise to make a suitable space for engineering work and storage.  Paint has been bought, Hammerite looked the most suitable brand.  The toolkit has been updated with some new items.  A photo of the kit ready for fitting, assembly and painting will follow.