Thursday 27 June 2019
Oops!
When I was trying to adjust the valve timing, the engine did not turn over for a complete revolution - because I had checked it before installing the piston rod gland filling. The gland fitting was further out when the filling was installed (of course!) and occupied the space needed for full movement of the piston rod and cross-head. I now have to dismantle the engine assembly to obtain full access to the gland to check and re-adjust it. I suppose this will be good practice, :( . The engine drops out of the car without much trouble. I shall, hopefully, also learn to check everything thoroughly as I do the work.
Sunday 16 June 2019
Future plans
I have declined the offer by Steam Traction World to supply me with one of the first batch of ten boilers, as I have had to share my activities with family centred activities, so have fallen behind in my Lykamobile assembly schedule.
I do have kit of parts for a set of electrics for the steamer, which have prompted me to think about the best arrangement for me. I would like to be able to control the electrics by using a keyed switch, so that all electrics are off when the key is removed. I also want to be able to turn off the burner shortly before reaching a destination, so that the energy stored in the boiler can be used and reduce the boiler pressure as the end of a trip comes along (this is recommended practice for other steam vehicles). As I am hoping to be able to tow the Lykamobile using an A-Frame, then the lighting provided by the towing vehicle should be used by the steamer. The same lighting should be made available when driving the steamer on its own. Any legal vehicle designed for lower speeds should have a beacon if driving on dual carriageways. - I expect to be able to use one.
All in all, there is a need for an updated electrical circuit diagram, which I am in the process of producing.
The use of standard caravan connectors would seem to be worth adopting. I envisage adding an extra box for lighting electrics.
I have been able to procure a set of batteries as recommended by STW, they need to be kept charged.
It would be nice to include an alternator in the design somewhere to enable charging without connecting to the mains, and while running the steamer. If I achieve that ambition, I can post details in this blog.
For security, I would like to be able to use a padlock to disable the reversing control.
I have got to have a steam whistle, and might be able to build one from standard plumbing materials.
I do have kit of parts for a set of electrics for the steamer, which have prompted me to think about the best arrangement for me. I would like to be able to control the electrics by using a keyed switch, so that all electrics are off when the key is removed. I also want to be able to turn off the burner shortly before reaching a destination, so that the energy stored in the boiler can be used and reduce the boiler pressure as the end of a trip comes along (this is recommended practice for other steam vehicles). As I am hoping to be able to tow the Lykamobile using an A-Frame, then the lighting provided by the towing vehicle should be used by the steamer. The same lighting should be made available when driving the steamer on its own. Any legal vehicle designed for lower speeds should have a beacon if driving on dual carriageways. - I expect to be able to use one.
All in all, there is a need for an updated electrical circuit diagram, which I am in the process of producing.
The use of standard caravan connectors would seem to be worth adopting. I envisage adding an extra box for lighting electrics.
I have been able to procure a set of batteries as recommended by STW, they need to be kept charged.
It would be nice to include an alternator in the design somewhere to enable charging without connecting to the mains, and while running the steamer. If I achieve that ambition, I can post details in this blog.
For security, I would like to be able to use a padlock to disable the reversing control.
I have got to have a steam whistle, and might be able to build one from standard plumbing materials.
Reversing lever and other controls
The mounting for the reversing lever (and handbrake and water bypass control) is welded to the top right part of the superstructure. The alignment with the engine, on its vertical pillar, was a bit out - I am assuming that welding and the making of box section tubes is not a precise process. Compensation for this has been achieved by putting extra washers on the engine mounting bolts, which push the engine forward and upward, by 1 and 3 washers' thickness, respectively. I had to use my block and tackle to take the weight of the engine while doing that. The reversing lever shaft can now be bent slightly and gently into alignment. I thought I might need to use washers under the mounting brackets on the engine, but this was not needed because there was sufficient free play on the mounting bolts (once the paint layer had been removed).
The next job will be to finish the engine timing. Turning the engine over by hand is proving to be an issue, with the gland packing and piston rings in place and causing resistance. I have had the kind offer of loan of an air compressor to enable the engine to be powered up and tested, assuming that connections can be made or blanked off. I have been fairly liberal with my oil can, so everything seems to be coated in lubricant. I wonder if I should invest in some "universal" steam cylinder oil rather than using motor oil designed for internal combustion engines.
The next job will be to finish the engine timing. Turning the engine over by hand is proving to be an issue, with the gland packing and piston rings in place and causing resistance. I have had the kind offer of loan of an air compressor to enable the engine to be powered up and tested, assuming that connections can be made or blanked off. I have been fairly liberal with my oil can, so everything seems to be coated in lubricant. I wonder if I should invest in some "universal" steam cylinder oil rather than using motor oil designed for internal combustion engines.
Engine in place
The engine proved to be quite heavy, but was put into place with the help of a block and tackle.
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