I have not followed my strategy of building the Lyka without amendments.
At some stage it will be necessary to tow the Lyka.
I have added towing points which clamp to the front axle. A cross bar will take any lateral loads between towing eyes. The cross bar will also be useful for mounting any other extras, such as number plate. The assembly is clamped to the front axle with 2 U-bolts on each side; a further U-bolt on each side serves as a towing eye, which will also take a slowing down force (as trailers under 750kg do not have to be braked).
General towing point arrangement
Side
Front View
I have tested out the towing arrangement (hence the red rope). Using a block and tackle, I applied an estimated >300kg (0.5 g) No distortion or breakage occurred.
I have also done some work on a set of electrics. I shall use modern lighting components, in the interests of safety on modern roads. They might be disguised as period lamps. I have yet to decide on the physical layout, to be decided by the characteristics of the components.
As a towing bar will be needed, with the regulatory lights, it would make sense to use these on their own for Lyka use. When unplugged from the towing vehicle, they would be plugged into the lighting control box, to be placed handily for the driver. I have assumed a 7-pin connection (using an adapter if necessary)
I have added a key driven main switch, in the interests of security; and a burner cut-out switch. These will entail modification of the original design.
A warning beacon is included, as this is a requirement for vehicles travelling at <25 mph on unrestricted dual carriageways. I have tried to keep to conventional pin allocation and wire colouring for trailer connections. As far as low water levels in the boiler are concerned, STW have advised that no additional safeguards are needed beyond those which are provided, to the original design. Any additional monitoring and safeguarding systems are up to the builder.As a towing bar will be needed, with the regulatory lights, it would make sense to use these on their own for Lyka use. When unplugged from the towing vehicle, they would be plugged into the lighting control box, to be placed handily for the driver. I have assumed a 7-pin connection (using an adapter if necessary)
I have added a key driven main switch, in the interests of security; and a burner cut-out switch. These will entail modification of the original design.
Hi Alan, Easiest way to install a brake switch, is to use a motor cycle type hydraulic switch in one of the rear brake callipers. Cheap easy and simple! The thread is M10x1.
ReplyDeleteAmazon or Ebay have thousands of them!!
Rgds
Greg
Greg, thanks for your timely advice. Regards, Alan
DeleteSwitch has been procured and installed - thanks, Greg, for the advice.
DeleteHi Alan, I'm glad you read my mumblings!! With regards to burner auto shut off in the event of boiler water low - I already have had a discussion with STW on this subject as I know this is an essential requirement to protect the integrity of the boiler! Yes, STW are correct in saying provision has already been provided, but this relies entirely on the driver! For me, an Automatic Fail safe MUST be provided!! After all, the boiler is a very expensive piece of kit and deserves some protection! I WILL be building and fitting an electronic low level alarm which will automatically shut off the burner and prevent if from re-starting until a safe water level has been restored!! But, that is me, my choice!!
ReplyDeleteRegards
Greg
Greg, I would love to know what your solution looks like, as I have successfully followed up on several of your suggestions. Alan
ReplyDeleteHi Alan, The solution to water levels is reasonably simple! The mk1 Lykamobile had all sensors ready built in - boiler water levels including low boiler, fresh water supply tanks, battery level etc. However, it has been decided by STW that this time round the mk2 (that we are building) would be a very much cheaper and cut down version and all electronic monitoring has been cut out. Fresh water supply tanks will be monitored simply by a clear plastic tube running up the side of the tanks, and boiler level will be monitored by the drivers "eye" as a boiler level sight glass has now been included on the drivers side of the car - which is OK in theory until the driver forgets to look!! The Mk1 was therefore supplied with , apart from the sensors which were screwed into the relevant tanks, an electronic circuit board which was mounted in the brass control box on the floor in front of the driver. In the most part, this circuit board illuminated rows of LED's to warn the driver of state of battery and water levels. I'm not so sure it would actually cut off the burner in the event of boiler low water though. However, this board was redesigned by people in the US to do exactly just that - and it is this board that I intend to get hold of and utilise. (Maybe, I will eventually get round to fitting water supply tank sensors as well - but n the meantime I am only interested in the boiler low function. The problem at the moment is going to be where to fit a suitable sensor in the new redesigned boiler as it does not have the steam supply manifold as the Mk1 did - however, where there is a will there is a way so a little bit of redesigning will be called for to fit a vertical sensor (the Mk1 used horizontal sensors). So, that is as far as progress goes at the moment - I have already sourced the board. Let me know if you are interested in this mod and perhaps I will be able to help you!
ReplyDeleteOne more thing regarding your towing fittings/arrangements. Not knowing anything about your intended "A" frame setup, but I would have thought the manufacturers of the "A" frame would have supplied all the car side fittings for the frame and not have left it up to you to fit "U" bolts to ensure total integrity and safety?
Hope all this helps
Regards
Greg
I have put up a separate post about my thoughts on detecting boiler water levels.
Delete