Saturday 23 May 2020

Bits and pieces

I have a collection of parts waiting to be assembled and painted.
I have persuaded the smoke hood to slip onto the top of the boiler. The inner part was tight, so I made a number of short slits to enable the base to be made wider by bending the lower edge outwards.  This also had the effect of trapping the insulation between the inner and outer metal parts.
I have put the smoke hood inside the cladding which extends up from the boiler.  The drawings show the smoke hood as being outside, but the fit seems better this way on my boiler. When the upper boiler band is tightened, this has the effect of clamping the top in place as well.  As I did not remove any insulation from the lower part of the boiler, the lower band was about 2cm too short - I used a strip of brass bent into a rectangle to enable the band to be extended.  The chimney was a simple push fit.  I have been advised that a rearward facing orifice to replace the T-shaped flue might not work properly even if the cross section area is larger, so this sub-project is being left until later, or not at all.
I have tried bleeding the brakes, and spread hydraulic fluid over the workshop floor, where I failed to tighten one hydraulic joint properly.  For as long as I have tinkered with cars, I have never found brake bleeding easy; nothing has got better!
The cylinder lubricators have been assembled and installed.  As the cam was a bit stiff on the down stroke, I ground a small flat on the spindle so that the grub screws could gain some extra purchase - the same treatment was used for the knurled knobs.  I managed to find where I had stored the leftover parts from an earlier kit which were needed to complete the connections to the valve gear.
The pipework has started.  A T-piece leading to the pressure switch could not be persuaded to screw onto the pipe.  STW thought that this was caused by the machine tools becoming worn towards the end of the batch, a replacement is expected, keeping up the STW reputation for customer service.
I have bought myself some hard-tipped drill bits which are supposed to be able to tackle stainless steel, which work hardens as it is machined.  I need these to complete my towing A-frame.  I have promised to show my Lykamobile to people who are further away than a day trip for the Lyka, so a towing arrangement is needed;  as the Lyka already has four wheels suitable for motor bikes, I have opted to use those when towing (after disconnecting the chain!).
Is there any way of driving an alternator from the steam motor?  It would be useful to keep the batteries in a good charge state; especially when young relatives turn up and can't re-start their cars, and need a jump start from the Lyka's batteries.  In the event that we have a power cut, I have found that an inverter driven from the batteries can power the microwave oven (not one of the original design features).
What's next?  finish the pipework (more to come); get the brakes working; install the burner; install the bodywork; paint all, including a yellow lining for the main panels; RAISE STEAM; get registration for road use.
I have already started to make a maintenance/ inspection schedule.
I need a steam whistle.

2 comments:

  1. Greg. Any increase in range is welcome.

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  2. More info soon(?) on the performance of the A-frame towing arrangements. Yes, there have to be two towing points on the towed vehicle. I am hoping to be able to reach a speed of 40mph without problems (there is a 50mph limit in the UK I believe). The tyres were originally intended for use on classic motor bicycles, which I am sure could reach that speed. I have no idea how stable it will be or whether there will be any tendency to yaw. I hope not, as the front wheels will follow the motion of the car due to the castor effect, and the rear wheels are well back, which is aligned with recommendations by the Caravan Club. I am intending to use the car as an unbraked trailer, as it is light enough to meet the required weight restrictions.

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