STEAM!

 

I have turned on the burner and taken the boiler up to about 5 bar.  The video shows the result (even if some idiot left the blowdown valve open!). I had first to remove the airlock in the fuel feed, caused by the fuel filter being mounted too high up, and then primed the burner pump. Although I have used the battery to power the burner, I used the mains so as not to drain the batteries. The manual water pump works, but slowly; I put water into the boiler through the opening next to the non-return valve.  I have added some conditioner to the boiler water, hoping to avoid corrosion and water scale.

It has been said that one of the satisfying tasks with maintaining a steam vehicle is finding and fixing steam leaks.   Judging by the picture, I have plenty to keep me busy and satisfied. 

Towing the Lykamobile

Some time ago, I decided that, as the Lykamobile has a fully functional set of wheels, then putting it on a trailer would be  a waste.  So, I designed  and built an A-Frame for towing.  The base of the A-Frame clamps onto the front axle, with the side arms meeting at a towing socket fitting to the car tow ball.  When being towed, the steering castor angle should keep the wheels pointed in the direction of travel. The towing arrangement needed testing; here is the result.

I needed to know:

• Can it be readily attached?
• does anything loosen or fall off?
• will it tow in a straight line, without swerving?
• will it behave nicely when turning a corner?
• Can it be pushed in reverse?
• Does the safety link stay in place?
• Does it cope with speed reduction bumps?
• Will it accelerate and slow down going up and down hills?

I selected a local route for testing, which included straight and level sections, up and down hill and speed bumps.  For the test, the A-Frame was attached and the tiller removed.  I have used cotter pins and R-Clips for these.  The diesel and water tanks were loaded, but not full.  The Lyka brakes were not in operation, so I checked the car manufacturer's data which says 750kg is acceptable for an unbraked trailer.  A separate towing/lighting board was used.  Attaching to a towing car is not easy.  There is some movement possible by turning the steering wheels.

Nothing got loose, or fell off.  This includes the safety link which stayed in place.  PS: I did re-discover the breather hole in the fuel tank, which showed itself as drips of diesel fuel when standing facing uphill on a slope.

It tows nicely without swerving or oscillating.  There is some bumpiness, probably because the Lykamobile has no shock absorbers.  Speed bumps are handled, but not well.  The absence of shock absorbers in effect limits the speed for comfortable towing; I took it up to 40mph.

It follows the towing car round a corner.

Reversing is not easy, as the Lyka steering wheels are forced to one side or the other and could be damaged.  This is to be expected with the castor angle being effective.

When going uphill, performance is reduced, as could be expected after attaching half a tonne to the car. A lower gear was selected.  Slowing down was not a problem!

In conclusion:  A screwjack and wheel would help with hitching and reversing.  The screw jack would have to cope with the load on the front axle.  Not much can be done about the absence of shock absorbers to make towing less "lumpy", other than reducing speed while towing ( A UK legal requirement anyway).

OOPS!

 A successful test is one which identifies problems to be fixed.  I have had a successful test!

The burner has been fitted, and electrical connections seem to be good.  

I then decided to put water in the water tanks and test for leaks.  This test was the 'successful' one, giving me the opportunity to emulate Noah.  A long time ago, I assembled the parts, but did not go on to seal the joints properly - after the test I am having to dismantle and then re-assemble the leaky joints properly.  Working on plumbing in situ is more difficult than doing the same job on the work bench. 

I am also trying to work out how to use the additives which will:

• prevent 'diesel bug'  and 
• keep the boiler clean.

Does it reflect on the steaming community that the correct concentration of water additives are described such that the water has the appearance of bitter when correct, whereas the appearance as of Guinness or lager indicates that the additive is too strong or too weak.

Weights and measures, and plumbing

 I have weighed the car.  Each wheel in turn was lifted just off the ground surface, using a screw jack on some old bathroom scales as a load cell.   It weighed in at about 479kg (including the towbar).   That means it can be towed legally in the UK, by a vehicle which can pull an unbraked load of 750kg.  There is more mass at the rear of the car (280kg on the rear wheels).

Pressure gauge.  I was surprised that the gauge registered 2.2bar when not connected;  This doesn't seem quite right, but STW think that the offset is to ensure that the gauge is correct at around the working pressure.

Plumbing.

I have no experience of making copper pipes fit into a plumbing system. Although I have not kinked the pipes, my efforts to bend them have not been pretty.  Heating up the pipe has effected some annealing, which helped.

Now that the pipes are fixed in place, some pressure testing should be possible:  cold water first, then compressed air.

Progress

 When it is cold, dark, wet and windy, not a lot gets done to the car. I usually give up when I can't feel my fingers or what they are holding. I am gradually doing the little assembly tasks which will end up with a completed vehicle.  This includes putting sealant (Steam Seal) on threads which have to keep in 200psi water and steam, not to mention  putting it on my fingers.  As I have noted before, the sealant sticks well to fingers.  I have assumed that the flare fittings are good to over 200psi without sealant. The copper pipes have been bent where necessary, taking care not to put in any kinks.

With thanks to those who have posted pictures, I have succeeded in mounting the throttle and its cable, safety valve, mounting bracket, cylinder drain valve, pressure gauge, boiler water gauge and valves, cylinder oil pipes (with non-return valves the right way round), pump outlet pipes, etc.  I gave up on trying to fit the pressure gauge pipe into the chassis - it will have to be secured to the outside of the chassis.

I shall have to tackle the burner, brake bleeding, painting, water tanks, towing arrangements, steam pressure testing, and so on.

Gradually catching up

Despite other things taking priority, progress is being made.  We are supposed to have all the parts now.

All the bodywork has got its first coat of paint (even though painting is not my forte), and is now being added to the Lyka.  This picture shows the front panel in place, and the seat perched over the boiler.  We can now see what it might look like.  What isn't shown is the pipework, which is being "dry" assembled.  Like some others, I was confused by STW's decision to change the thread on the flare fittings, making the adapters incompatible with the pipe fittings.  Flare fittings are supposed to be the best for pressurised steam.  A careful look at the front of the Lyka shows part of the stainless steel A-frame tow-bar.  This hasn't been tested yet;  the car had to visit the garage after a minor collision. I think a realistic test relies on the Lyka having representative mass distribution. 

 A side view of the Lyka shows the burner in place at the back.  The fuel will be diesel, to be held in a tank under the driver's feet.  I am pretending that the smoke hood and water tanks are fitted.  The smoke hood provides a set of problems because of pipes and stays getting in the way of putting it on tidily.  The tanks have waited for me to re-route the blow-down valve which was trying to occupy the same space.

My to-do list is growing and includes:

• finish putting the body panels and seat in place (including smoke hood fitting);
• connect the burner, attach its wicker basket;
• finish the pipe work;
• test the tow bar;
• test the steam system;
• bleed the brakes again;
• check the paintwork, and add yellow lines;
• Add insulation as recommended by STW;
• arrange registration for use on the public highway;
• arrange insurance.

That should keep me busy, and planning for lights, mirrors, mud guards, whistles, etc.

Has anyone thought about how to add extra seats?

Progress with towbar

The towbar can now be tested and then used.  I was waiting for some anti-vibration spring washers (to avoid the A-frame falling apart in use!)  I expect to make use of the towing facility when making longer trips, and for rescuing the Lyka if it should malfunction.  For more modest trips, I have some Jerry cans for water or diesel fuel, which can be put in a trailer.  I was thinking that towing cars using an A-frame was uncommon when, on my last motorway trip, I noticed a small car being towed by this method by a motorhome.  The steering wheels are supposed to use the built in castor effect to line up with the line of travel. 

  The A-frame is connected to the Lyka via U bolts on the front axle.  The u-bolts are attached with u-bolts which clamp the horizontal bar in place.  

 The towbar will be attached here.

Here, the towbar is shown lowered  and ready for use.  It can be disconnected from the Lyka by removing the bolts which go through the u-bolts.  I already have a towing/lighting board to attach to the rear of the Lyka.  
The orange cable is intended to meet regulatory requirements for a backup to the main towing coupling. 

In this last image, we can just make out the seat, partially assembled.  My grandson is helping with the fitting.  He now understands the meaning of the word 'tedious' , after making each of the spindles narrow enough to fit into their holes.  

I have now worked out the implications of a throw-away comment by our materials lecturer at college, that stainless steel work hardens when it is machined.  I inadvertently selected stainless steel as the material for the channels which are the basis for the A-frame.  I have not been able to develop the skills needed to drill stainless steel easily.  But I have learned the virtue of patience, as it takes a long time. Simple DIY hand tools are no substitute for professional quality pillar drills, etc. with which the right speeds and feeds can be applied.